![]() ![]() The advanced motor control parameters are your best bet.Īnd lastly a set up procedure as performed by my friend Brian Moore, who writes: However take your time, and don't let the thing defeat you. Now, if you find you struggle to get good switching performance out of your other Tsunami's, don't fret, they can be tamed. The drop in decoders prove that it can be done differently. I've never owned any of the purple monsters, but they do look larger than needed. For LED’s you will need to wire in a resistor for each light" This will take place of the existing common (+). You will see a small brass circle that goes all the way through the board and is labeled “+14” in white letters. To locate the +14 common look near the two silver capacitors. On another forum I found this exchange (answer) from Soundtraxx to someone: "In order to install LED’s or bulbs with the TSU-GN1000 you will need to wire to the +14 common. However I'd think if you connected behind the resistors with another value resistor, you'd be able to get sufficient voltage for the led's too. I'm getting the impression that the design has changed as previously they didn't have resistors on board, and they seem to have now. ![]() So I think there are ways to make it work. However, there seems to be one spot on the board with a 'lightning' symbol, I'm thinking this is a +V spot before the build in resistors on the 'AT' board, and might have full track power. Hi Reinhard, the universal Tsunami decoders I've used have that function, I must admit I have no experience with the 'AT' version. The other sound file I now use does not use that beeping sound. This early recording must have been made with a microphone in the engine compartment, where a warning buzzer is fitted. I did select a different sound file after this video was made as I did not like the beeping noise at engine start up and shut down. This video shows it in operation, and you can see how bright the LED's are. In small loco's this will take up a bit more space, and it's why I like the Loksounds because of the build in resistors. The only thing to do then is to add resistors to your outputs, and solder the LED's to those. Thanks Reinhard, alternatively, you can use the 12V output on Tsunami decoders. I did therefor order "universal" instead of drop in decoders for my MP5AC LED equipped machines. They are rated for current but for simplicity you can assume 3V is the right voltage. I do not and have most Athearn engines replaced with LED. ![]() ![]() the Tsunami Athearn drop in Tsunami have 1.5 V bulb support only. Mine has an open backside and needs to reside in a baffle to prevent an acoustic shortcut.ī. your speaker has a closed backside and works without a baffle. Just shrink the dimensions and omit the loading dockįaraway Wrote:Hi Koos, that's a nice video explaining all the steps. Vernon contemporary industry "shoe box" buildings are the perfect training to build baffles. the baffle needs to be removed again and the small holes in the corners and the speaker need to be closed to trap the sound in the baffle. Two sample photos taken at a test run after step 4. Sound became "apartment friendly" after CV128 was set to 20 I selected speedtabel CV25=11 and reduced speed down to 32 in CV66 and 95 (set bit 4 in CV 29!). The Tsunami did work with the Athearn drive out of the box fine. put the shell back and you are done with the hardware :-) solder the lamp wires in place ( same location at with Athearn)Ħ. mount the baffle with tape to the chassis and solder the speaker wiresĥ. I preferred the easy way und built the box around the speaker laying on a glass plane)Ĥ. (Soundtraxx provides construction drawings with correct size to build the baffle. Do not forget to solder two wires to the speaker and have a small opening for the wires. put the speaker 810113 with the front down and build a styrene box about. reconnect all four power wires and the motor wires (same locations as with Athearn)ģ. Install Tsunami with the capacitors down.Ģ. swap the Athearn PCB with the Tsunami decoder TSU-GN1000 828058 EMD 645 (Non turbo). The upgrade from the DC version is very easyġ. May be you are interesting my report how I installed my first Tsunami sound decoder into an Atheran H0 Genesis GP15-1. ![]()
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